Making Body Molds with Plaster Bandages

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , , Tuesday, October 26, 2021 1:53 AM

Who says plaster bandages can only be used to make a mother mold? The plaster infused gauze can also be applied directly on some parts of the body to make form molds that are later used for life casting.

Plaster bandages are normally used to make a shell mold to reinforce the flexible alginate or silicone body molds. The plaster in the bandages sets to form a rigid structure that encases the flexible mold and helps it retain its shape.

However, the plaster bandages can directly be applied on the skin to make form molds as well. This is used on areas like the stomach, back, thighs and arms which do not have much contours or undercuts. The bandages are most common for making pregnancy molds of the abdomen to capture the shape of an expecting mother for posterity.
 
 


Following is a look at what goes into making a body mold with plaster bandages:

  • The model has to be prepped for the session – the artist should inform him or her about the process, like what to expect and how much time it will take. Discuss the pose and ensure that the model can stay in the position for half an hour or so. Props or support may be required.
  • Prepare the area for the session by lining the floor with a waterproof covering as the dried plaster can prove difficult to remove. The artist should also wear a protective apron or old clothing that can be discarded later.
  • An appropriate mold release – like petroleum jelly or olive oil – should be applied on the body as this will make it easy to remove the mold without pulling on the body hair.
  • The bandages have to be rolled out and wet before applying. Here it is better to use warm water as the wet bandage can chill the skin and become uncomfortable for the model.
  • Lay the strips on the body one at a time starting from the top and moving towards the bottom. Make sure to overlap them to form a strong mold. It is better to keep changing the direction of the bandages when building the layers and make them thicker at the edges. This will serve as a good grip when it comes to demolding.
  • Work out the air bubbles when applying the bandages. However, do not press down too hard as this will form dents and can even deform the mold.
  • Once done, let the mold set and dry before demolding. Carefully run a finger under the edges to break the seal from the skin. The mold can then be lifted off easily from the body.
  • Place it on a soft surface with the hollow side down and let it cure properly. It can then be varnished for some extra protection.

Plaster gauze bandages and other materials and supplies needed for making a life cast can be easily sourced at EnvironMolds. The art supplier manufactures and stocks top quality products and tools and is more than willing to assist with tips and instructions as well.
 

 

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How to Paint on Silicone Rubber?

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , , , Tuesday, October 19, 2021 12:23 AM

Silicone molds and casts always throw up the problem of proper finishing as regular paints cannot be used on this rubber surface. Specially-formulated silicone paints are the best solution.

Silicone rubber proves to be a wonderful material for making both molds and casts. It is easy to use, captures details well and cures quickly too. The best part is that as silicone does not stick to anything, it is easy to demold as well, even without using a release agent.

However, this very property becomes self-defeating when it comes to painting a silicone surface. Regular oil and acrylic paints fail to adhere properly to silicone molds and casts; they will start peeling and cracking soon. This proves to be very frustrating for artists; some even resort to roughing the silicone surface so that the paint can stick on it.

Bringing an answer to the fore


There is silicone paint that has been specially formulated to work on silicone surfaces. Available in a dye form, it should be mixed with a suitable silicone paint medium – just like oil paints are mixed with linseed oil for thinning. This medium is actually a silicone catalyst which works to transform the paint so that it can permanently bond with the silicone surface that has to be painted. As the paint is also flexible, it will easily stretch and bend along with the rubber without causing any cracks or breaks. In fact, the paint can even work to protect and preserve the surface from regular wear and tear.

Silicone paint is usually used extrinsically to paint the silicone surface after it has set. The dried surface is cleaned with acetone before painting by hand. Alternatively, the color can be airbrushed on silicone (do clean the airbrush immediately to prevent clogging). For intrinsic coloring, a few drops of the pigment can be added to the silicone base before adding the catalyst.

However, bear in mind that silicone pigments can be added to tin-based silicone rubbers only. If mixed with silicone that has a platinum catalyst, it can interfere with the setting of the rubber.
 

EnvironMolds offers top quality silicone pigments in a broad range of color options – from black and white to red, blue, yellow, green, orange, purple and more. There is also the 'Quinn Blush' shade which is used by renown doll rebirthing artist, Terry Quinn to add the lovely skin blush to her silicone dolls.

The best part is that this silicone paint can be used on both tin-based and platinum-based silicone rubber surfaces as they have been formulated to adhere to both types of surfaces. Medium for making the paint is also available.

Therefore, artists can easily paint their silicone casts in the desired colors to get the effect they wish. They are especially favored by special effects and prosthetic artisans, doll makers, etc. to give the painted-on color effects to their silicone rubber creations. However, they can be used on regular silicone molds and casts too.

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Tips for Working with Plaster for Making Castings

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , Sunday, October 3, 2021 10:37 PM

Fine art casting plaster is the material of choice for making casts. This is high-definition and yet easy to use as long as the proper mixing and pouring directions are followed. Find some more tricks here.

Plaster is considered the most common medium for making casts. It creates a rigid form with a lovely white finish that will stand the test of time. Plaster casting is often favored by artists over and above silicone or polyurethane rubber, and for good reason at that. In fact, it is the material of choice for making life castings as well.

However, the plaster used for castings is not the regular plaster of Paris as it tends to get chalky and flaky and will not be able to hold details well. Special plaster powders are available that have distinct additives and have been heat treated which alters these natural properties of plaster. In this way, it becomes suitable for fine art casting as the plaster cast can hold details without chipping or cracking.

This material is quite easy to use. Just mix the plaster powder in the specified quantity of water and it will be ready to use. Keep in mind that the water should be at room temperature and it is better to add the plaster powder to the water and not vice versa. The mixing can be done by hand (with gloves) or an electric mixer while taking care to avoid air from entering the mix as it can lead to air bubbles in the cast.

The plaster mixture is quite workable. One of the secret tricks is to apply a thin coating all over the surface of the mold and allow it to set a little. Then pour the mixed plaster slowly and in a thin stream to avoid air pockets.

It will set and cure naturally to a fairly hard structure. In fact, the cast should be demolded when it has set hard, but still feels a little on the wet side. There is no need to worry as the plaster can still be carved or tooled even after it has cured. Just sprinkle some water to wet the surface and it will be ready to use.

Another tip is that working with plaster can get quite messy. Therefore, artists prefer to clean as they go to keep the dust and waste from piling up. Also, keep in mind that plaster should never be applied directly on the body as the material releases heat as it cures which can cause burns at times. However, plaster bandages are sometimes used to make form body molds.

Best option


CastRite Art Casting Stone is a fine plaster powder that gives a natural, bright white finish to the castings. It can be used for making figurines, statuary, picture frames, life castings and even restoration works. All castings will turn out detailed, strong and durable. Enjoy the smooth plaster surface finish in the casts and life casts!

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Working with Mold Making Latex Rubber

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , , , Friday, September 10, 2021 4:45 AM

Latex rubber molds are easy to make, economical, last for years and can be used for multiple castings. Following are a few pointers to be kept in mind when making a latex mold through the brush-on method.

Latex rubber is considered the best material for making molds – it trumps in terms of affordability, durability, reusability, convenience and more. The molds turn out flexible and can be used to capture a negative impression of statues, figurines, plaques, life castings, etc. The most complicated models can be easily captured down to the minutest details.

In fact, latex is formulated in liquid form to allow ease of use for making molds. Take Kreemtex Premium Liquid Latex for Mold Making for instance. The liquid rubber can be brushed, sprayed or poured over the model to capture its shape in a mold. The thick consistency makes it easy to apply and also allows for easy coverage with minimum coats. However, if the rubber seems to be too concentrated, it can be thinned to a more viscous consistency by adding distilled water to get the requisite runniness.

Latex rubber should be stored in a cool place; it should not be allowed to freeze as this will make it unusable. It should be stirred properly prior to use. In case the ammonia content of the latex has evaporated or diminished over time, it is better to replenish the same before use. However, the ammonia should come from a chemical store and not grocery ones as the latter contain more of soap. Add a bit of ammonia at a time till the original texture is obtained.



How to apply?


Brushing multiple coats of latex over the model is the most common method of making a latex mold. Some models may have to be sealed prior to late application. Applying a suitable release agent is preferable.

Start from the top of the model and brush the latex in a thin and even coat while making sure that all air bubbles are brushed out. From the bottom, continue out to form a two inch flange which will serve handy when using the mold for casting.

Allow each coat to dry properly – it should be dry to the touch - before starting the next one. Here it is advised to apply the liquid latex in a checkerboard fashion by alternating the direction of application. This will ensure that the mold does not shrink and the dimensions do not change. A heat source can be used to hasten up the drying between coats.

Once the desired thickness is built up (will take 10 to 12 coats at least), the mold can be removed from the model and allowed to dry further for 72 hours or so. Curing in a warm atmosphere to ensure proper strength and toughness to the mold.

Molds made from Kreemtex Premium Liquid Latex for mold making will be stable, tear resistant and can be used to cast different materials. The outcome will be perfect as long as the proper procedure and precautions are followed!

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How Tough is a Cold Cast?

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , Monday, August 30, 2021 7:16 AM

Making a decorative metal piece does not have to be pricey and cumbersome. Cold casting makes it easy, but artists should keep in mind that the reproduction will definitely be more brittle than metal.

Cold casting is a popular method of making faux metal casts. It involves mixing metal powder with a resin to create castings that give the appearance of solid metal. Rather than the hot casting method using molten metal in a foundry that is both expensive and time-consuming, cold casting turns out to be a quick and affordable option for recreating the look of metal casts. There is no risk of burns and other dangers either.

Recreating a figurine, prototype, hardware pieces, small run production pieces and other parts with cold casting is relatively easy. The requisite bronze, brass, copper, steel or aluminum powder is usually brushed, dusted or sprayed on the inside of the mold to form a thin and even coating. Then the resin is mixed and poured into the mold. (For smaller pieces, the powder can even be mixed in the resin itself.)

Once the resin is cured, it is demolded and burnished or abraded with steel wool to remove the binder and reveal the beauty of the metal filler on the surface of the cast. Keep in mind that when the metal powder is mixed with resin, it may take a bit longer to cure.

The same technique can be used to recreate the look of ceramic, wood or even stones like granite, marble and limestone. Tin powder can work well for achieving a pewter, iron or nickel silver finish.



Points to ponder


While a cold cast sculpture will replicate the exact look of the original metal, stone or wood piece, it will obviously not weigh the same. It is much lighter and some artists retain the light feature as it makes the ‘sculpture’ easier to handle. Otherwise the mold can be backfilled with fiberglass, iron or steel shots, sand or calcium carbonate to achieve the desired weight. Alternatively, the cold cast can be lightened by adding hollow glass beads.

Coming to the durability of the cold cast reproduction, it will definitely be hard and durable. The actual toughness will depend on the casting resin used to make the piece. All resins cure hard and epoxy resin is considered exceptionally sturdy. However, the strength and durability of a molten-crafted metal construction cannot be replicated. Therefore, care is required not to bang or drop the cold cast figurine.

The best choice


EnvironMolds offers a variety of fine grade cold casting powders that are 325 mesh grade - the correct fineness for cold casting - and can recreate a beautiful finish. Even the resin options are of top quality and will turn out strong and sturdy castings that can last long as long as they are handled properly.

In sum, cold casting with casting powders is the way to go to get the desired effect without spending a bomb or even bearing the risks of a foundry casting.

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Clay Goes from Modeling to Ballistic Testing

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , , , Sunday, August 8, 2021 11:43 PM

Clay is as versatile as a material can get. Get to know the different uses of various types of clay that ranges from clay models, molds and casts to even ballistic testing of vests and varied weapons.

Clay enjoys wide patronage in the world of mold making. Clay modeling is very popular and is used for a variety of purposes. Apart from molds, this extremely malleable substance is also used for sculpting, mask making, special effects, animatronics and claymation. The best part about using Plastilina clay is that it is oil-based and non-drying. This makes the material reusable as well.

Apart from this, clay proves to be handy for various other unexpected uses too. For instance, small dabs of clay are used to affix the model to the base before making the mold. The same clay can be also used to fill the gaps around the edges of the model; this will give a good, clean edge to the mold. Even any spaces or holes in the model can be plugged with clay before applying the mold making material. It also serves well for sealing the edges of the mold box, so that the mold material will not seep out before it cures on the model.


Other types of clay


There is a special type of clay called ballistic clay. The distinct feature of this clay is that it manages to almost replicate the density and viscosity of human tissue. The close match makes it useful for estimating and comparing the destructive effects that various firearms and ammunition can have on the real human body.

The gel like substance is regularly used as a backing material for terminal ballistic testing – like the testing of ballistic vests. It will provide unmatched terminal ballistics data for all types of rifles, handguns, machine guns, muzzle loaders, air rifles and pistols, bows and crossbows. In addition to this, ballistic gel heads and torsos can be used to simulate the effects of various bullet wounds with reliable and consistent results every time.

Where to get them?


EnvironMolds stocks a fine selection of plasticine, ceramic and ballistic clays of all types and price ranges. The renowned choice of professionals – Roma Plastilina clay comes in several degrees of hardness and is suitable for almost any application. Then there are budget options from Del Milano and even sulfur free formulations from Chavant. The latter can be used to cast silicone rubber without any fear of interfering with the setting of the rubber.

Coming to ballistic clay, the art supplier offers ballistic clay and gel blocks along with dummy heads and torsos. The clay is clear, odorless, reusable, 100% synthetic and contains no organic materials. It is non-toxic and can easily be molded into any shape as desired. More importantly, it is completely temperature stable (up to 240℉) too. Moreover, Clear Ballistics does the calibration on the gelatin to ensure that each batch meets the FBI protocols for ballistic testing.

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Learning the Mold Making/Casting Lingo

Posted by EnvironMolds , Labels: , , , , , Monday, August 2, 2021 3:09 AM

What is the negative image of a model called that you will make before making a positive replica? What are the holes on the top or bottom of a mold called? Know the terms that go with molds and casts right away!



The world of mold making, casting and life casting comes with its own plethora of terms and phrases. Familiarity with them is essential.


  • Mold – It is a negative impression of the model, usually in the form of a hollow cavity.
  • Cast – This is a positive duplicate of the model which can be in any other material or color as desired.
  • Cold cast – This is a faux cast – it is made of resin but can duplicate the look of metal, stone or wood.
  • Life cast – The three-dimensional representation of a live person – it can be the face, hands, feet, torso or entire body.
  • Pot time – Also known as working time, this is the time on hand to work with a material – it includes the mixing and application time - before it will start to set. After this, the material will not work properly.
  • Cure time – This is the time that the material will take to get completely cured. It can range from just a few minutes to hours or even a few days.
  • Shelf life - The period of time a material can be stored and remains suitable for use.
  • Mix ratio - The proper proportion (either by weight or volume) of material and catalyst (oftentimes referred to as Parts A and B) to be combined.
  • Shore hardness – This is a measure of the hardness of a given material or how resistant it will be to permanent indentation.
  • Release agent – A material applied in a thin layer to the surface of the model or mold so as to allow the subsequent mold or cast to be demolded easily.
  • Sealer – Another material that is applied on porous models to seal the pores and prevent the mold making material from getting absorbed.
  • Demolding – The process of removing a model or casting from a mold.
  • Parting line – A marking line which denotes where the parts of the mold should meet.
  • Keys – These are created at the ends of multi-part molds to join the different parts together to form a complete mold.
  • Spues – These are the small holes which will help release the air trapped inside the mold.
  • Pour hole – This is created as an opening to allow the casting material to be poured into the mold.
  • Viscosity – This is the thickness or thinness of the material and will dictate how easily it will flow. Less viscous materials are thinner and flow easily.
  • Pressure pot – Resins are usually cast under pressure that will compress the trapped air to miniscule size.
  • Vacuum chamber – The rubber mix is usually churned using a vacuum pump with vacuum chamber. The vacuum chamber will suck out the air and not allow bubbles to appear on the rubber mold or cast.

Armed with this detailed knowledge, get going right away!

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